It is a flat wide button cell battery. The battery supplied cannot be charged, but this could of course be replaced. My batteries have lasted for 15 months and none of them is flat. I don't think I can check the battery level without taking one out.
The Philips Hue Dimmer Switch 2021 is compatible with older Philips Hue models as it is part of the Philips Hue smart home system and communicates via Zigbee. This enables easy integration into existing Philips Hue installations.
Yes, the dimmer switch can also be used without the wall bracket. It has built-in magnets so you can attach it directly to magnetic surfaces such as a fridge or simply use it as a detachable remote control anywhere in the home without needing the bracket.
The Philips Hue dimmer switch is normally supplied with a wall bracket that is magnetically attached to the wall bracket. This bracket can be attached to a wall to secure the dimmer switch. Alternatively, there are also compact wall brackets that can be attached with a 3M adhesive strip or screws.
The Philips Hue dimmer switch product with the model number 929002398602 uses a CR2032 lithium metal battery. This battery is included in the scope of delivery.
No, you cannot control colours with the Philips Hue Dimmer Switch V2 without the app. The dimmer switch allows the lights to be dimmed and switched on and off, but the Hue app is required for colour control.
No. The HUE Bridge uses ZigBee to control the light sources. Nanoleaf is purely wireless. An API also seems to be missing, you will have to make do with the app or Apple Home.
We recommend asking this question directly as a discussion together with your interesting summary. Experience shows that more customers answer there than in a single question.
The Philips Professional CorePro LEDSpot GU10 4 W 345 lm you have purchased are not Bluetooth or Hue lamps, but conventional LED spotlights. The Philips Hue dimmer switch 2021 always works with Philips Hue lamps that can be controlled via Bluetooth or Hue Bridge.
To control with the dimmer switch, you therefore need Philips Hue GU10 lamps that support Bluetooth or ZigBee, such as those included in sets with Hue Runner spots. Normal LED spots without a smart home function are not compatible.
In short: Your Professional CorePro LEDSpot GU10 will not work with the Hue dimmer switch, you need Philips Hue GU10 lamps with Bluetooth or Hue Bridge compatibility.
With the Philips Hue dimmer switch and a connected Hue Bridge, you can control different lamps and lamp groups, but the individual and precise control of individual lamps with the remote control alone is not as flexible as you might expect.
- You can use the dimmer switch to switch groups of lamps or scenes on and off and dim them, but direct, individual control of each lamp without prior grouping or scene setting in the Hue app is not possible.
- You can create rooms or zones in the Hue app and control them with the remote control, but it is not possible to directly target and dim a specific lamp without prior configuration in the app.
To control individual lamps separately, you must group them accordingly in the Hue app or create scenes and then control these groups or scenes with the dimmer switch.
I assume that it works and is not defective.
The standard battery has lasted quite a while in this type of light switch.
I feel like I change a battery every few years.
A test would be appropriate.
There is approx. 16% more voltage compared to a battery.
With the LIR, the cut-off discharge voltage is reached at 3.0 volts.
I'm just wondering how it behaves when it reaches 3.2 volts and below. Not that the battery will be damaged.
A fresh CR has around 3.2 volts.
This is already discharged at 2.8 volts.
So, in addition to the form factor, the difference is that the Dual Switch has 4 buttons for switching 4 different lamps, scenes etc. on and off and a dimming wheel. The buttons can be freely programmed in the Hue universe, so the Dual Switch can be used, for example, to switch 4 individual lamps (groups) on/off separately using the buttons and dim them using the rotary control. The rotary control can also switch on a 5th lamp (group). Dimming and scenes can also be controlled with the buttons.
In short: the dual switch is more versatile to programme.
If you only want to switch one lamp or entire groups in a room, the normal switch is sufficient.
If you want to switch different lamps or groups separately, the dual switch is the better choice.
The switches can also be combined - different switches can control the same groups. I use the Walschwitsch, the normal switch, the Feller and the dual switch. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.
Has anyone configured the "natural light" scene that has recently become available? You can configure the on/off switch so that the natural light scene is activated, which means that over the course of the day, the light changes independently between cold and warm. To do this, however, "Time-based light" must be selected under Mode instead of Scene cycle. The only problem is that the times defined in the scene are not applied, but that the "HUE" button on the dimmer must be sacrificed in order to define the times to be defined in this scene again (regardless of the scene already stored in the room). For this purpose, the "Natural light" function must be defined instead of "Specific scene" when pressing the on/off switch. If you select "Specific scene", then you can only define 5 time-independent scenes as before, i.e. with each click on the Hue button, the next scene appears. But this makes absolutely no sense, as "Time-based light" can still be activated at the top of the mode, but this has no influence at all. My idea would actually be to activate the time-based scene with the on/off switch, but at the same time to navigate through any 5 scenes with the HUE button. However, this does not seem to work. Philips has probably pointed out that if you want to use the function via the dimmer, you also have to define the times there, which then sacrifices the 5 scenes.
